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| Trans Alpina - 4 to 16 October
2011 (Part 3) Report
by Jim Paterson
Now for the Col bashing
Menton to Briancon - 9th October
Time
to set off on our tour of the Alpine passes. Once again the Turini was
climbed as we left Menton headung north. That would make four times on
this trip, on our way to Briancon. Three more Cols that day, with La
Bonette at 2802 metres next. La Bonette is the highest alpine pass, and
the air gets thinner at the peak which is not that short of 10000 feet.
It was a beautiful clear sunny day, with a cloudless blue sky above.
You really feel on top of the world as every alpine peak around is
lower than you.
We met two distressed visitors, one in a camper van
which tried the narrow “top loop” and had to do a three
point turn. A wrong move and they would be at the bottom of the
mountain faster then they thought. The other was a despondent couple in
a new Mercedes which had burned its clutch out. Try explaining that
location to the AA !
The following cols, Col de Vars at 2109m
and Col d'lzoard at 2360m were just as exciting after the challenge of
La Bonette, leading to Briancon where we managed to pick another Ibis
with no restaurant. We plumped for hot snacks and washed them down lots
of red wine while some took the chance to show their snooker abilities on
the pool table.
Briancon to Sallanches - 10th October
Leaving
Briancon we headed east over the Col de Montgenerve 1850m on the way to
our first border, into Italy, but only for a short time as we crossed
back into France to climb the Col du Monte Cenis at 2083m.
Next on our
list was the Col de l'Iseran which had closed several days earlier
following heavy snow falls in the Alps. Good news the pass was open but
as we climbed the snow line soon appeared and the temperature dropped
just as quickly. The Sprite crew pressed on with top down into the low
flying cloud to reach the top of the pass, before making a rapid decent
into the ski resort at Val D'Isere. The Sprite missed the others who
had stopped in Val D'Isere for lunch, though we knew they were there
somewhere. Turned out they hid in an underground car park. Must remember
the X Ray specs next time! Our final Col for the day was Cormet de
Roselend at 1968m before reaching
Sallanches. Meanwhile the sun had returned and we took time out to stop
at some of the many ski resorts (yet to start the season) on the way.
Now this was what
we wanted in an Ibis, good rooms and a good restaurant with happy
helpful staff. A supermarket next door also offered the opportunity to
stock up on provisions, red wine, red wine, and oh another bottle of
red wine! Tom Dromgoole attempted to withdraw money from the hole in
the wall. Not one for modern technology Tom tried one of his three
cards, but was not sure which pin went with which card. After two
unsuccessful attempts Jim told him to stop or lose the card. We stood
there like dummies trying to figure out how to get the card back, when
all of a sudden it threw it out. I'm sure the machine said “Pah -
Anglais....”
Sallanches to Como - 11th October
This
was going to be a long day, 235 miles across four passes. We headed for
the Swiss border and over the Col de Montets at an easy 1461m, on the
other side of the border the Col de la Forclaz at 1527m was crossed,
dropping into a cloud filled valley.. A
long run to the Furkapass would have tested the cars at 2431m, but was
closed. Fortunately there is a railway right through the mountain and
we all jumped on that, with the cars of course! Then we picked up on
the almost downhill run to the St. Goddards Pass at 2108m. By now it
was a almost a straight run south to Como in northern Italy. Around
Como is pretty heavily populated and arriving at rush hour is not the
best time.
To add to the misery, neither the Sprite or the
Sierra crew had the Tom Tom Italian maps loaded. After driving round in
circles for twenty minutes Jim Paterson was forced to do the
unmentionable, turn on data roaming and use google maps. My O2 carrier
told me that I would be sent a text when I had spent £20, and
again at £40, after which I could use data for no extra cost.
Thanks for that! No sooner then I had selected Googlemap than a text
for £20 appeared. However it did show we were only a mile or so
from the hotel. After a few wrong turns we reached the hotel safe and
sound and itThe route to St. Moritz had its share of hairpins as well. was one of the better Ibis with a good restaurant. Just
what everyone needed after a very long day.
Como to Chur - 12th October
Today
we headed back to Switzerland, with an even longer and tougher
itinerary. 262 miles and 7 cols to climb, including Gavia and Stelvio.
The run up the east side of Lake Como from Lecco to Colico was
interesting. Virtually the whole way is tunnelled through the
mountainside for over 25 miles. It was warm and humid inside and with
the top down on the Sprite a bit “exhaust fumey” By the latter
tunnels Tom and Jim were decidedly nauseous and never so glad to head
east on the via Stelvio to reach our first col of the day, Passo del
Aprica, at 1181m. The Passo del Tonale at 1883m led to the Gavia at
2621, but disaster. The pass was closed and the gates firmly locked.
Snow had closed the upper reaches so we had to retrace our steps and
head for Bormio and on to the Stelvio, thankfully still open.
I've
read many articles and watched many videos of the run up and over the
Stelvio 2757m, but but has to be seen and tried to appreciate the
splendour of its 60 hairpins, 48 on the northern side. One of the great
passes. We did it the “easy” way, from the
south to the north, and met a Hillman Hunter English crew at the top
going the other way. A replica of the London Sydney Hunters this Holbay
engined giant had several extras. A motorcylce fan to draw the heat
away from the exhaust manifold, and water cooling for the twin webers
to stop them “gassing”. This “Hi Tech” mod
consisted of a pair of windscreen washer jets pointing to each carb,
piped to a footpump in the drivers footwell. I was assured it did work.
Finally a mod to provide two steering boxes (the left hand and right
hand drive devices) linked together to provide extra strength to cope
with the hairpins.
The Sprite being the most nimble shot down
the north side, all 48 hairpins, with Tom Dromgoole driving. Other cars
heard the little cars exhaust popping away and pulled over as Tom
practised his Heel and toe all the way down. Watch the video clip.
Everyone
that crossed the pass found the experience exhilarating, but we had
three more passes to cross before nightfall. Crossing over the border
into Switzerland once more we reached Ofenpass 2149m followed by
Fluelapass at 2383m, and just to finish the day Lenserheide on the run
into our overnight stop in Chur.
Some
of our party who were exhausted from the drive into Como the previous
day, took a detour to St. Moritz, missing the Stelvio. They had some
great views across the Maloja district in Switzerland
Another Ibis with no restaurant
open, but there was a McDonalds nearby so burgers it was to be! On the
plus side we did have a walk round the new Range Rover Evoque which the
dealer across the road had several, and the fuel station sold very good
wine at only a couple of Euro's a bottle. Our group could make their
own fun and the Ibis manager was happy for us to eat and drink out own
“ration” in his restaurant.
Part 1 - Getting to the start at Reims Part 2 - Reims to Menton and the Nuit du Mentonnais Part 3 - The Col Bashing Part 4 - Through the Black Forest to Nurburgring Part 5 - Nurburgring and Home
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Updated 27 November 2011
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